Cordillera Day

The Cordillera is a mountainous region north of Manila that is largely inhabited by many tribes of indigenous people. Like indigenous people all over the globe, the people of the Cordillera are constantly struggling to maintain their ancestral land, resources and culture against transnational corporations and even their own country's government. 

The view from my tent!

This year was the 30th annual Cordillera Day. Representatives from different tribes, advocacy groups and countries attended to participate in workshops and cultural presentations. It was held in Kalinga, one of the 7 provinces of the Cordillera.

I was able to participate in a workshop on agriculture, and I learned a lot about the negative impact of international trade agreements on local farmers. For example, corn subsidies in the US make it cheaper for Filipinos in Manila to buy US imported corn than the corn grown by farmer's in their country. Pretty crazy! We also talked about the influx of toxic chemical pesticides and fertilizers that are being pushed on small farmers by transnational corporations like Syngenta and Monsanto, and the devastating effect these have had on health, the environment and the economy. Talking about these issues in NGO conference rooms in Manila is one thing, but hearing the same concerns voiced directly from indigenous farmers is incredibly powerful. It was a great confirmation that the work SIBAT is doing related to sustainable agriculture is necessary and important.

The main event hall with multi-colored tarp roof
and bamboo benches

While the workshops were quite serious, Cordi day was also full of celebration of local culture. There was lots of dancing, some of which I attempted to take part in. Communities performed songs, plays and gave heartfelt speeches throughout the 3 day event.

We slept in tents in the most picturesque mountain-side conference location. In fact there were no permanent structures at the entire event- the main event space was a giant tent made of bamboo poles tied together with rope, covered with tarps. The bathrooms were also small bamboo structures with tarp walls and a hole in the ground. Sometimes there was running water but it was pretty unpredictable.

The one that got away

Cooking lunch for 1000

Each morning and at various times throughout the day everyone was jarred by the loud screaming of pigs being slaughtered for lunch and dinner. They probably killed 4 pigs every day to feed the hundreds of attendees, plus one water buffalo on the third day. The screaming of tortured pigs sounds a lot like children. I was really shaken by it, and even though it was a couple weeks ago I still keep hearing the screams. Creaky doors, whining dogs and crying babies have all caused me to look around in panic, thinking I was hearing another pig being killed. When you really look at pigs, they're so human like in their eyes. I was pretty elated when I found out that on the last day a pig was actually able to hide under a stage beside the kitchen, even though he'd been left with his legs bound to a bamboo pole.  Because it was dark when they went to kill him he could not be found. He probably didn't add too much time to his life, but to me it really demonstrates the fact that pigs are smart animals that have a will to live.

This stirs up a lot of internal debate for me because I can certainly acknowledge that not everyone is in a position to immediately stop killing animals for food. I know that in the Philippines, eating meat is a big part of celebrations and people's cultural identities. I'm not passing judgement on indigenous people for slaughtering pigs for this or other events. Still I feel that it is a practice that will one day be looked back on by humanity as barbaric and unnecessary in today's society.

Holy Week in the Philippines

Good Friday in Pampanga

In a country where 85% of the population is Catholic, Christian holidays are a big deal. At SIBAT, the office was closed Wednesday-Sunday for Holy Week. Unlike in the US, we didn't even call it something PC like "Spring Holiday"! I've been called out for my attempts at political correctness here, which I'm beginning to think is a purely American construct. But back to Holy Week!

Since we had Wednesday off, we accompanied Nathan's aunt and uncle to University of the Philippines Los Banos to pick up their son for his break. It's a couple hours south of Manila, and the campus was a lush green, tree-filled paradise. On the way back, the roadways were lined with hoards of people waiting to board buses to the provinces. We must have passed thousands of people waiting for buses! Over the next couple days, the effect was staggering- the city was a ghost town! Streets that notoriously have standstill traffic at all hours of the day were like open country roads. (A similar effect was seen during the Pacquiao fight the week before, because everyone was inside somewhere watching, but it was much shorter lived).

Maundy Thursday

I spent most of the day at church, participating in a Lenten reflection and then attending the evening Maundy Thursday service. I’ll admit that I didn’t warm up to my new church right away, but I’m really beginning to feel like part of the community there.

Good Friday in Pampanga

During a 2-hour break between a Lenten reflection and the evening service, I was idly snacking on a glutinous rice dessert in a room with the members of the women’s guild- most of whom are probably around 70. I was thinking it would be a long two hours with nobody to talk to. I ended up spending it learning a huge lesson about presumptuousness.  I had sat beside an old woman during the reflection, and all I really noted about her was that I hadn’t seen her before, she seemed a little disheveled, and most of her front teeth were missing.  Then she introduced herself – she had attended the church in the 60s but now only comes when she visits Manila from Mindinao, the southernmost part of the Philippines. Once we started talking and I realized how much we had in common, I almost cried (I high-fived her instead). My advocacy work at SIBAT has been focused on organic, sustainable agriculture, and she’s an agriculturist with an organic farm in Mindinao.  She brought up Golden Rice and said “Why would they add vitamin A to rice! People just need to eat vegetables!,” which is essentially the punchline of a flyer I made last week at work.  She told me about her organic farm and her younger days as an activist. She smirked while talking about how in college when they were lecturing about "biotechnology" (chemical pesticides, fertilizers and GMOs) she didn't even save her notes because she knew she didn't need it. I was giddy for having met her and for finding a friend and ally in the most unlikely place. I love the way church can bring people from totally different backgrounds together that way.

Good Friday
One tradition that takes place in a couple towns within the Philippines is the reenactment of the crucifixion on Good Friday. A few people volunteer to be nailed through their hands and feet to a cross in the sweltering heat, believing that it will earn them favor in the eyes of God (despite the denunciation of the practice by the Catholic church, and the total lack of biblical basis for this belief). One man has already been crucified 23 times, and plays the main role of Jesus in the passion play. It sounds pretty gruesome but also like something that I might never get another opportunity to see, so I decided to check it out.
Through the magic of Couchsurfing, I found a travel companion with a rental car (Nathan had a choir performance and couldn't come). Nathan's cousin Jascha also came along for the adventure.

Good Friday in Pampanga

We headed north for about an hour, and once we got off the highway we knew we were close when we saw self-flagellation along the sides of the streets. This is also thought of as a way to atone for one's sins during holy week. As we got closer to the town where the crucifixion was to be held the number of bloodied backs we passed grew rapidly. We found a place to park the now blood-spattered car and joined the crowd of onlookers. There were hundreds of people self-flagellating while they slowly walked through the town, many wearing black face coverings. It was so crowded that I actually got whipped on the arm by one of them. Turns out the whips are pretty soft! Once I got a closer look, I saw that there were two big patches of about 50 razor cuts on the mens' backs. To achieve the bloodied look without using a real whip to pierce the skin, they make lots of incisions before they start and then spread the blood around with the whips.

The bloody procession was moving toward the beautiful Metropolitan Cathedral in the center of the town. Once the men reached this site, they would lie face down on the pavement in front of the church. Women and children were standing nearby to gently continue the whipping. The kids seemed like they were really enjoying themselves, slapping the men with their sandals and gently kicking them. After some amount of time, the penitents would get up, make the sign of the cross, and walk away to make room for the next group. Along with people carrying crosses, which is the third and least violent method of repentance, they begin the long walk to the site of the crucifixion.

Metropolitan Cathedral in San Pedro Cutud

The heat was pretty unbearable- maybe 95 degrees and no shade in sight. After we'd seen enough of the whipping for one lifetime, we retreated indoors until it was time to head to the crucifixion. The field with a hill that has been chosen to represent Calvary is pretty far from the town center, so we took a pedi-cab as close as we could. The walk was still pretty far, and involved crazily darting back and forth across the street through a massive crowd to catch every small patch of shade. We arrived at the field just in time. Squeezing through throngs of sweaty Filipinos, we found a spot just to the side of the action.  People with good views must have arrived hours earlier. Over loudspeakers there were shouts from Roman guards and loud weeping from Mary Magdelene, all in Filipino, before the three crosses on the hill were lowered. The first batch of men being crucified wore microphones so their screams could be heard throughout the crowd, but the loud cheering still drowned them out. Once the nails were carefully positioned and driven through the hands and feet of the three men, the crosses were lifted. 10 minutes later the nails were plucked out, the crosses lowered, and the process began again with the next group. Unable to stand the heat much longer, we began to make our way out of the crowd.  I had expected this to be a more gruesome, somber, reflective experience, and in that respect I was disappointed. Still, as a cultural experience it was definitely interesting and I'm glad I was able to see it. Even though it's not far from Manila, most of the Filipinos I've talked to about it have never seen it before and think it's a little over the top.

Easter Sunday
Sunday morning Nathan and I attended a beautiful sunrise service with some friends that live here- they're actually the parents of our friend Stephen from San Francisco. There was lots of joyful singing, an upbeat sermon complete with a jazzy interlude, and we followed it up with a picnic in the park. It was a great way to start the day. I really love Easter, it fills me with so much hope to remember all over again that He conquered death on our behalf. Hallelujah!

Cambodia & Thailand

Two weekends ago (March 13-18), Nathan and I took a trip to Cambodia and Thailand.

Disclaimer: One of the conditions of my 12-month visa for the Philippines is that I can only be here for 59 consecutive days (but I can leave and re-enter as often as I want for 12 months). If I stay longer than 59 days, I have to pay something crazy like $150. On top of all this, I also can’t re-enter the country without proof that I have a ticket to leave again before the 12 months is over. I’m actually feeling pretty guilty about this situation, because there are a lot of people that helped fund my volunteer work through donations. I don’t want to give off the impression that I have all this excess money and I’m using it to jetset around Southeast Asia, and at the same time I don’t want to miss this opportunity to see other countries while I’m on this side of the world.  Luckily from what I’ve seen so far, you can go a long way with very little money around here! Anyway, I just wanted to put that out there.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Angkor Wat

We only had one full day in Cambodia- we arrived the previous night and would leave the next morning for Bangkok. I had been pretty disappointed once I realized how little time we’d be spending there, but it ended up being perfect.

Siem Reap is the city outside the Angkor temple area. I think it exists entirely to provide food and accommodation for the huge number of tourists visiting the temples. Nearly every building we passed was a guesthouse, hotel, bar, restaurant or souvenir shop. The dusty roads were packed with tuk tuks and motorcycles, both used to transport tourists around the area. For $15 we hired a tuk tuk driver for a full day to take us around the temples.

Angkor Wat

I was not expecting there to be so many people! Though I guess it makes sense, especially given the recent increase in airlines flying into Siem Reap. The walkway to the first temple we visited, Angkor Wat, was packed with tourists, monks and local guys persistently offering us tours. Normally crowds like that could make it hard to appreciate an ancient temple, but it was still totally engrossing. The scale is unbelievable. There were many buildings within Angkor Wat, and not a single feature was without intricate detail. It was constructed as a Hindu temple in 1125- I cannot fathom how many hours it must have taken to carve the thousands of images of Vishnu into that much stone without any of today’s technologies! Nevermind the massive undertaking of gathering all of the raw materials.

Nathan took over Angkor Wat

The corridors were incredibly narrow and winding, like a labyrinth. It was really disorienting at times, and I wonder if that was intentional. Imagine the original tenants meditatively wandering the zig-zagged halls that are now filled with shutter clicks and voices in 20 different languages.

The fact that it was just under 100 degrees might have contributed to my feeling of disorientation. Having to wear long pants didn’t help either- some temples have a dress code prohibiting shorts or tank tops. Being the good tourist that I am I bought some massively baggy Thai-style pants from a woman outside one of the temples after haggling down to 50% of the asking price (my mom taught me well!).

Ta Prohm

We wearily toured a few other temples after Angkor Wat, including Bayon Temple, which is Khmer for “GIANT FACES EVERYWHERE!” and Ta Prohm which translates to “TREES ARE GROWING INSIDE THIS TEMPLE, WHAT!”. I think.

There were a couple others that we just quickly stopped by, but the heat in the middle of the day was so draining and I was relieved to go back to our guest house to shower and relax. I really enjoyed the place we ended up staying – Advisor Angkor Villa. Everyone there was really friendly, and the highlight of the whole trip for me was meeting other travelers while lounging in the common area. We met a French guy who bartends for 6 months and then travels for 6 months, on and off, forever. A German artist who sold a painting and decided to spend the money on a couple months in Thailand. A German engineer a few weeks into his 18 month globe trek.   Everyone but us was travelling solo, though a common sentiment was that they hadn’t been alone much given the robust community of travelers in that part of the world. We ended up going with a few people to a night market for late-night snacks and beers. Meeting all these interesting, brave, adventurous, and yet also totally normal people was really inspiring. Like, “Hey, I could do that!” Anyone could do that!  It was also timely because I was finishing Vagabonding by Rolf Potts, a book dispelling the myth that only a certain type of person can see the world.

Onward, to Thailand!

Yikes, budget travel: $10 for a bus, 200m walk, and crowded minivan ride from Siem Reap to Bangkok. 8am-6:30pm. But we made it!

The bus dropped us off at Khao San Road, the westernized backpacker/hostel zone, loaded with bars, cheap guesthouses and street vendors selling less-than-authentic Thai food. We compared prices and found the cheapest place- around $11 per night. Having read that some of these places are pretty grimy, I asked to see the room first. We scoped it out, without instructions on how to turn the lights on, and it looked like a totally standard, albeit cheap, hostel room. After paying and learning the secret for the light switch, it was a whole different story: dirty stained sheets, little bugs on the floor, mystery gunk on the bathroom/shower floor. Not cool.

"I'm hard to eat out with" in Thai

 Luckily, one of the people we’d met in Siem Reap had just been to Bangkok and wrote down a couple recommendations. The next we got out of there as quickly as possible and hopped on a boat ($0.50!) down the Chao Phraya River to the part of town he recommended, and I’m so glad we did! This next guest house was only twice the price of the first, and was pristine. Some things it had over the first place: so clean, air conditioning, free filtered water, free wifi, free coffee, the most helpful staff, and a kitchen for guests! What a 180.  That was a pretty awesome turn of events. The host at the front desk even wrote me a little note in Thai that I could hand to food vendors and they would know what I do and don’t eat!  Or it said “This girl is crazy, just nod & smile and then go stir fry some vegetables”.  We will never know.

Monk crossing the street

For Siem Reap, there was really no planning required because there was just one attraction: temples. Bangkok is totally different, but that didn’t stop us from making no plans and doing almost no research. I don’t think it could have worked out any better- without a big list of things we wanted to do, everything was an adventure and we were free to spend as much or little time every step of the way. I was feeling pretty templed-out, so we skipped some of the major tourist attractions. Instead we stumbled upon really beautiful parks, a giant anti-government protest camp, and countless monks doing everyday activities (sleeping, crossing the street, drying their laundry). Monks are just people! In orange! Especially in Thailand where every male is supposed to serve as a monk for at least a week. I loved that!

Sleeping Monk

Oh Thai food. The hard thing about being white and liking really spicy foods is that nobody believes you, and I also get the feeling that people are worried for me when I order things spicy. So usually they ignore my requests. I thought Thailand would be different because I’d heard that everything is made spicy by default, and it was for Nathan. But alas, the blander tastes of my forefathers have betrayed me again. It wasn’t until the last night that I was able to get my fix via green curry at a jazz club. Spending an evening listening to live jazz and drinking cocktails probably wouldn’t have made it into a tightly-packed tourist itinerary, and it was one of the best things we did there. Along with lying in a park watching kids flying kites, standing at attention while the queen drove by in a massive caravan, taking the long way to the Old City by walking through the overcrowded markets of Chinatown, and getting around by bus despite not always knowing where the bus was headed.

I will leave you with a list of things I overheard our fellow American tourists say while travelling:

• “I just came from Bangkok, why the f*ck would I go back? F*ck that!”
• A guy at our guest house in Siem Reap in response to our bus driver politely asking him if he was also taking the bus to Bangkok
• “I already hate this country. You just can’t talk to these people.”
• Annoyed girls trying to check into our overbooked guest house, talking amongst themselves in front of the Cambodian staff, all of whom seemed to have an ok command of the English language.
• “New York and Philadelphia have really different accents, but nowhere else in the US really has an accent. Like, people in California sound the same as people in the north east.”
• A lesson about American accents from a New Yorker to a British girl on the trip to Bangkok.
• “Look, that monk is napping, take his picture!”
• Me.

Food, Glorious Food!

God said, “See, I have given you every plant yielding seed that is upon the face of all the earth, and every tree with seed in its fruit; you shall have them for food. And to every beast of the earth, every bird of the air, and to everything that creeps on the earth, everything that has the breath of life, I have given every green plant for food.” Genesis 1: 29-30

My master plan for vegan living in Manila

Before arriving in Manila, my biggest concern was whether or not I would be able to find vegan food. There were more seemingly important issues- housing, finances, natural disasters, terrorism- all of which I felt would work themselves out, but I couldn’t stop worrying about what I would eat.  Having heard many times about the Filipino love of lechon (roasted pig) and their fondness of flavoring dishes with bagoong (shrimp paste) and patis (fish sauce), I knew that eating in Manila wouldn’t be as easy as it was in San Francisco, arguably the best cities in the world for veggie lovers.  I reassured myself with the facts that at least there would be rice and mango, and by stocking up on multi-vitamins and iron supplements.

After a little more than a month, I can now confidently report that I am the Luckiest Vegan in Manila.

Likha Diwa with Kat, Alay and Nika!

On the day we moved in to our new apartment in Quezon City, Nathan and I walked five minutes down the street to an incredible and entirely vegan restaurant called Pipino, which means cucumber in Tagalog. They have Filipino classics, decadent Western dishes like lasagna and mac n’ cheese, and a huge variety of vegan ice cream and cupcakes all made in-house.  I mentioned that SF is one of the most veg friendly cities, but I will add that it’s one of the most expensive as well, and this restaurant provided an awesome selection of plant based dishes for the price of a fast food combo meal at home. Plus they sell vegan bagoong, pesto and mayo in adorable jars to take home. This place was like a deep breath of fresh air and I decided that even if that was the only place I ate at for the rest of the year, I would be happy! As it turns out, that would be far from necessary.

I soon found out about a couple other great eateries. A few of Nathan’s relatives live nearby (another huge blessing that would take up an entire post), and after learning that I was vegan they went out of their way to show us some of the veggie restaurants they’d heard of in Manila- Likha Diwa, Greens and Corner Tree Café- the first of which is in our neighborhood (about 10 minutes walking).  So far, things were looking up. But a few restaurant visits don’t justify my title as Luckiest Vegan in Manila.  

Young coconut! Masarap!

The next week we started working at SIBAT.  Every day for lunch, the whole office buys their ulam (the saucy, salty part of the meal that you serve with rice) and brings it back to eat together, with the rice provided by SIBAT. Most people purchase something meaty from street vendors, and the chances of finding something vegan on the side of the road here, is close to zero. My favorite exceptions include: Coconuts, clementines, mango and taho which is made up of soft tofu, tapioca and syrup and is my new favorite breakfast food. Unfortunately, none of these would make for a very well rounded lunch. Luckily, through an incredible stroke of good fortune, the one restaurant in the condominium complex that we work in is ALL VEGETARIAN! So every day, instead of going out to the street, I walk into the courtyard of the office building and purchase my veggie ulam for around $1. I’m sure I’ll be reaping added benefit from this once the summer hits and I don’t have to go too far in the noonday sun! The one woman who mans this lunch spot, called Green Wok, makes a different dish every day and that’s what everyone who stops in will be served. I cannot get over how awesome a provision this has been!

SIBOL People's Store (from their website)

Finally, the cherry on top of it all: SIBOL People’s Store. SIBAT runs an organic farm north of Manila where they train other farmers on the use of organic, sustainable agriculture practices. They sell some of the produce from their own farm, as well as from the farms of those who have adapted their green farming techniques, in a small store located in the courtyard of our office building. Every week people from the city can place orders for produce and either have it delivered to their homes or pick it up from the store. So I stock up on organic veggies (as well as vinegar, wine, sugar and peanut butter) right at work for a very reasonable price. This week I ordered enough for 2 weeks of homemade dinners, filling a giant grocery bag past the brim, for around $6.

Some taho for breakfast at the office

So while it’s true that most people I talk to here are totally unfamiliar with the idea of veganism, and most restaurants have a very limited (if any) selection, I am still eating an incredible variety of delicious food.  I really can’t believe how fortunate a position I am in. I was worried I wouldn’t get to try any “real Filipino food”, and instead everyday a lovely woman cooks up a veggie version of a traditional Filipino dish and serves it inside my office building. I was worried that I would have a hard time finding fresh ingredients for cooking, and instead I simply tell my coworker at the SIBOL store what I’d like to buy and receive a beautiful array of veggies at work.  I was worried that on weekends I would sit at home eating white rice and vitamins, and instead there are two different and incredible veggie restaurants within walking distance from my apartment. I had been telling myself that God would provide for my safety, my housing, my work and my relationships, but I hadn’t trusted that He could take care of my most basic needs.  So I’ll end with this scripture that sums up my experience so far:

 "Therefore I tell you, do not worry about your life, what you will eat or what you will drink, or about your body, what you will wear. Is not life more than food, and the body more than clothing? Look at the birds of the air; they neither sow nor reap nor gather into barns, and yet your heavenly Father feeds them. Are you not of more value than they? And can any of you by worrying add a single hour to your span of life?” Matthew 6: 25-27 

Some pineapple growing on the sidewalk near my house

Other, unrelated, updates:

• I have a bike! I biked at night in Manila! What a crazy life!
• Work is great & I'm getting involved with No to GMO advocacy, starting with a trip to the Supreme Court tomorrow!

Introduction to SIBAT & a trip to Kimbutan!

Hello again!

After the first week and a half of culture shock, things calmed down a bit and I began work at SIBAT, the environmental NGO that Nathan and I will be volunteering with throughout the coming year. The nuts and bolts of the organization are described very well in Nathan's recent blog post, which you can read here.  I suspect there is a lot of overlap in our reader base so I'll spare you the repetition. 

I will add that from the outset I could tell that this was an organization I would be proud to be a part of. During our first few days of orientation it was very exciting to see the impact being made by this small group of excited, committed people on the lives of those living in poor farming communities throughout the Philippines. They achieve this primarily through the implementation of renewable energy systems, which can power water pumps, rice mills, lightbulbs, etc, and the promotion of sustainable agricultural practices. Added bonus: they incentivize farmers to grow produce organically by buying it from them and selling it at a small store right outside our office, so I can buy my veggies (and wine!) at work and know that I'm supporting the efforts of SIBAT in the northern provinces. I've come to learn that I'm a tomato snob and through the SIBAT store I've finally found tomatoes that meet my elite standards of excellence :)

Kimbutan

Kimbutan is located north of Manila
in the province of Nueva Vizcaya

After a couple days of orientation, we were able to sit in on the yearly organization-wide planning meeting. Following about 20 minutes of solid Tagalog-only conversation, Mam. Vicky, the director of the organization, turned and said " So, Emily and Nathan, do you want to go with them?". Having no idea what she was referring to but not wanting to miss out on any of the action I quickly responded "Yes!" So three days later, we left for our first work travel adventure to the village of Kimbutan!

Kimbutan is a model community with regard to SIBAT's efforts. A micro-hydro energy station was established there over ten years ago, and through the efforts of a wonderfully organized People's Organization (PO) it has been running smoothly ever since. We've heard some horror stories about poorly run POs that result in disastrous results with the upkeep of such systems, so SIBAT takes great pride in the example set by Kimbutan. 

To begin I'll tell you about one of my favorite parts of the whole adventure- the process of getting to this rural village! It began with a 10 hour drive from Manila to Bambang, with a quick pit stop after 2 hours to switch cars at Mangarita Organic Farm, the farm owned and run by SIBAT in Capas, Tarlac. We found a hotel at 1am in Bambang and the next day took a shared van to the small town of Belance in the mountains. This is where it really started feeling rural, and as our distance from Manila grew the scenery became increasingly beautiful . From Belance we hopped in the sidecar of a motorcycle, something I'd seen a lot on the roads in Manila but hadn't experienced yet first hand. Off-roading on a rocky, hilly trail did not give me the best first impression of this mode of transportation, and after we survived the half-hour rollercoaster ride I thought that that was probably the scariest thing I'd ever done. Until! I saw the reason we were switching from tricycle to foot for the remainder of the journey- the wooden-plank suspension bridge stretching in front of us. I have been known to occasionally cry if I'm caught in traffic on a bridge- I'm very mistrusting of civil engineers I guess. And this was a particularly horrifying bridge.

                                    

Needless to say, I survived the crossing (TWICE!), but I'm pretty sure it was a close call. Then began a 2 hour hike uphill to the village.  We passed a few awesome views along the way:

A basketball court halfway along the trail, serving the 2 or so homes we passed along the way I guess!

This is where "Mountain Fresh Scent" comes from

Rice Terraces

We stopped for coffee after about 3/4 of the journey at the home of our new friend, kuya Clifford. The other members of our team knew him from his former days as PO leader in Kimbutan. He shares his small home with his wife and about 40 animals from what I could tell (mostly chickens, cats and dogs). Outside his front door is one of the most beautiful views we'd seen so far, and while I know that by most measures he was living in poverty, at that moment he seemed like the luckiest man in the world. Not another house in site, surrounded by the gardens that sustain his family, lush rolling hills in the distance- there are many different kinds of wealth!

Clifford's house and view (Photo by Nathan)

A cat and dog inside Clifford's house, warming up by the fire he made for our coffee! (Photo by Nathan)

Soon we arrived in Kimbutan and began to address the work we'd been sent to do (and by we I mean the two engineers and one "para-engineer" we were travelling with).  For the past 10 years, electricity flowed from the power station only between 6pm and 10am, and because the amount of electricity flowing to the community was directly related to the rate at which water passed through the system, all the appliances powered by the micro-hydro had to stay on all night, to prevent short-circuiting. (Or something like that!). SIBAT was sending a team to install an electronic load controller so that electricity would be available all day, and the voltage would remain the same regardless of how many appliances were running. Nathan and I, having no experience with electrical engineering or micro-hydro energy, watched the SIBAT engineers and community members work together to improve the system. At one point I asked if there was more that Nathan and I could do to help out, and one of the SIBAT engineers told me that if we helped too much we wouldn't be effectively passing the knowledge and skills on to the community members. Ahhh of course! This is the "empowerment" part of the SIBAT mission statement (Empowering poor communities through appropriate technologies), and one of the reasons we chose to volunteer with them in the first place. 

From L to R: Gen Gen (SIBAT technician extraordinaire/ "para-engineer), Rodel (SIBAT engineer), Paterno Wakat (Chairman of the Kimbutan PO), the micro-hydro system operator & 2 other local men who came to help with the project

With not many work-related responsibilities, Nathan and I were able to enjoy our surroundings while occasionally pitching in by stripping a wire or flipping a switch. Boredom was never an issue with waterfalls just outside the powerhouse, carabao pulling carts through pot-hole dotted clay-colored trails around the village, and a seemingly endless supply of adorable puppies and children. I think I'm even more drawn to animals and children in this setting because the fact that I don't speak a common language never comes up. 

Jimericks, the Chairman's grandson, and his puppy Chippy. Kimbutan's finest.

Standing immediately outside the powerhouse, overlooking the waterfall below

Some children at the powerhouse posing for pictures

I walked away from our first experience in travelling with SIBAT feeling energized for the work that lies ahead, and eager to be involved in a project in a more substantial way. And on that note, I will end this post with a hint about my next post: We ended the week in discussions about what our individual projects would be for the coming year. We're meeting to nail down the details on Monday, so hopefully I can share some details during the coming week about what my personal footprint in the Philippines will look like! 

Happy Valentine's Day!

Love, 

Emily

Off to a ___ start

I didn't expect to post again so soon, but the past few days have been so full and I want to get it all down while it's fresh!
I'm going to try to break it up by day, like a journal, for now anyway. Even just now as I wrote the dates down, I couldn't believe that it had only been 3 days. Probably the most loaded 3 days I've ever lived consecutively!

1.27.14, Monday

It's my second day in Manila and we're still staying with Nathan's Lolo Peping and Lola Esen, and their caretaker Sister Marygold. Their community, Ayala Alabang, is gated and very affluent, with homes as luxurious and extravagant as Beverly Hills.
We took care of a lot of practical needs today, getting cell phones and exchanging currency, at the nearby mall/community center Alabang Town Center. We were lucky to step outside the house at the same time the neighbor and her driver were leaving, and were given a ride! On the way back we took a Jeepney- something I had long been anticipating after hearing so much about them before I left home!
Jeepneys are US military jeeps left here after WWII that have been converted into a form of public transportation. They're known for their eye-popping paint jobs and can be taken all over the city at a very low cost- we paid 10 pesos, about 20 cents, for our 20 minutes ride home from ATC. The Jeepney waits at it's initial stop until it is "full", which is actually about 4 people past the point where everyone is sitting comfortably. Then it takes off on it's route, and you ask the driver to let you off when you're at your destination (no set stops).

Notice the driver's feet on the dash- sleeping between shifts I guess!

This is the one we'll hop on when we're ready to go back to San Francisco

1.28.14, Tuesday

We spent the first half of today hanging out in Ayala Alabang. It's actually a bird sanctuary and there are so many beautiful, unfamiliar bird songs playing throughout the day and night. The house is directly across the street from a beautiful Catholic church-

In storage, the off-duty nativity figures fawn over the adorable farm animals

In the afternoon we packed up our things and got in a van headed north to Quezon City, which is part of Metro Manila and is where we'll be living and working most of the time we're here. The drive was a huge shock to my system. The first couple days in Ayala Alabang had lulled me into forgetting that I was actually in the most densely packed, impoverished, polluted place I'd ever been, and I was quickly reminded. On the highway cars moved completely erratically and I felt like there was at most 3 inches between us and the cars beside us many times. We drove past huge slums and people selling peanuts for 5 pesos in between the lanes of fast moving traffic. I was still not convinced that we would be living in this Manila and not the Manila of the past few days, and when we exited the highway I was filled with anxiety, praying that we were still a long way from the place that we were supposed to be stopping.

Driving on EDSA, with Manny watching over us 

But then we parked! Right in the middle of it. It's just so tight, with so many people walking in the street and on the sidewalk, cars and Jeepneys and taxi-tricycles moving in a completely arbitrary way through the intersections. It was jarring in comparison, and I felt embarassed for having been tricked into thinking that our peaceful bird sanctuary was indicative of life in Manila- I don't think bird sounds will be the most prominent noise at night anymore.
We met the people that were in our office at SIBAT, and were told that we would be able to start working on Monday- they'll be traveling to the organic farm to meet with the Department of Agriculture tomorrow and Friday is Chinese New Year, so we'll hit the ground running next week. I'm glad to have a few days to get acclimated!
Finally, we were able to see the apartment that Nathan's cousin Nika had found for us. In his directions the owner told me that it was the one with the "brown gate with faded white graffiti", which after my traumatic car ride  seemed like a very bad sign and I immediately jumped to the image of us living in a filthy shack on the side of the highway. Luckily, I couldn't have been further from the truth- the graffiti is actually quite nice, it's just some spray paint calligraphy showing the number of the house. There are 2 other couples, plus another woman, that we will share the 5 bedroom, 4 bathroom house with, and the kitchen is as nice as any I'd seen in the US. It's immaculately clean and cozy and better than I could have possibly expected, and I am reminded how huge a blessing it is to have (Nathan's) family nearby to help us with things like this.

New digs!

1.29.14, Wednesday

Without work or real responsibilities to tend to we were able to spend all day walking around our new neighorhood- I'm so glad we are starting this adventure in January, as people keep reminding us that in a few months we won't want to walk anywhere because of the heat. Already it's quite hot, maybe mid/high 70s during the day, but these temperatures are unusually low, even for winter.
The walk to SIBAT is only 5-10 minutes, and there is a grocery store even closer.
We walked to a nearby mall and though I felt like I had seen a lot from the car ride to Quezon City, it was taken to a whole other level when we were walking along the busy street in person. There were so many people sleeping on the side of the road, in Jeepneys or wooden carts that you would sell produce from, or just on the dirt. One small wooden cart, placed just off the sidewalk on the highway, contained a young woman with a toddler asleep on her chest. The poverty is not like anything I've seen or could have imagined, and it's everywhere, all the way up to the gate of the mall that was just as extravagant and excessive as any mall I'd seen before. The juxtaposition of affluence and near-death-poverty was something Nathan had tried to describe in the past but didn't make much sense until I'd experienced it.
Mall, taxi, home, nap, coffee.

At the University of the Philippines

We spent the evening with Nathan's grandpa (Lolo Jerry) at University of the Philippines, seeing the most incredible cello performance. I had kind of thought I only really enjoyed classical music when it was played by people with the last name Dadap, and I was proved wrong. The concert was called Neo-Baroque, and the cellist was named Renato B. Lucas. Lolo Jerry knows him, as he is also a musician and has performed with him in the past.

With Lolo Jerry before the concert

Three tiny kittens playing on the roof outside the concert. "There are lots of tiny cats here, they're Filipino sized!"-Lolo

For all of the crazy, shocking things I've seen in the first few days of being here, I'm nonetheless thrilled to have finally arrived and so excited to see what this year will bring. It's already been an eye-opening experience, and I know I've only just scratched the surface of what this country has to offer, in both beauty and brokenness. Thanks for reading and sharing in this journey with me!

And now, for the Tagalog phrase of the day! So you can learn along with me :
Nagugutom na ako, kain  tayo!  I'm getting hungry, let's eat!

Day 1!

After a very long journey, I've finally arrived in Manila!

I had heard mixed reviews about Saudi Arabian Airlines but I ended up liking them just fine! It helped that I got mysteriously bumped to an XXL business class seat for the second leg of the trip :)  It was like flying in a Lazy-Boy recliner!

Once I arrived & got my bags, Nathan, Sister Marygold (his uncle's caregiver) and his uncle's driver picked me up and whisked us off to Alabang village where we will stay for a couple days. The community is really beautiful, with lots of palm trees and gorgeous homes. It's nice to know that it will be here if ever we need to take a break from the rest of the city- it really feels like we're on a resort!

Tomorrow we'll seize the day, we have to buy cell phones, exchange currency, figure out our apartment- but for now I think I could sleep indefinitely. Of the 28 hour trip, I had only about 3 or 4 hours of sleep. I wasn't tired enough during the first flight and was way too excited during the second flight. It was beautiful to see some of the lush, mountainous islands of the Philippines as the plane was landing, followed quickly by my first taste of the insane driving that takes place in Manila! The initial adrenaline rush is beginning to die down and the sleepiness is hitting hard.

I'll post again once we're settled in our apartment and hopefully I'll have a better idea of what projects we'll be working on! We're planning on stopping into the office tomorrow or Tuesday.

Nathan, Kobe and Mr. Dadap at JFK before we left!

On the ground in Riyadh

Saudi Arabia Runs on Dunkin

Lunchbox for my layover! They came around and gave out dinner boxes too, which for veg was the same as the lunch. Luckily it was delicious!

Nathan's Lolo's house in Ayala Alabang, where we're staying for now